- SINGLE GANG PLASTER RINGS CUT DRYWALL AROUND PATCH
- SINGLE GANG PLASTER RINGS CUT DRYWALL AROUND CODE
SINGLE GANG PLASTER RINGS CUT DRYWALL AROUND CODE
I think in the end the solution is spacers behind a box extender (or spacers only but we want to respect code requirements), but it's such a disappointment and a pain to have to add all that extra junk to fix this issue. Which doesn't leave enough drywall to catch the ears of the outlets.Īre these just horrible boxes? If not, what did we do wrong?
It forces slightly bigger cuts with a rotozip. Which leads me to think that's a design flaw. I finally compared the box we used to the standard 1 gang box and the outside edge is bigger on all sides than the standard box. While our rotozipping wasn't perfect, mostly the cuts are 1/8 beyond the box which is basically just the width of the bit. Even box extenders ears don't grab any drywall! But worse, the receptacles only hit the box edge, not enough overhang on the ears to grab any of the drywall. Some worse than others, it's an old house. If we tried to set them any further out, the nails would not even end up in a stud.Īfter hanging drywall and rotozipping around the outside of the box, the boxes are mostly not flush with the drywall. We used the notches on the box to set the boxes on the studs. We selected the shallow, extra width 1 gang electrical boxes so we could fit more insulation behind them on our exterior walls. Shallow New Work Electrical Box-SNO18-6R - The Home Depot Look for damaged insulation on all the wires.Hoping someone can see what we did wrong, or if not, agree that the electrical boxes we used have a design flaw! Right now I bet the wires are just fed into those boxes with no clamps or anything to cover the sharp edges of the knock outs. Whoever performs the cutting, compliance with Section 370-21 is mandatory. But, where the drywall is existing or has already been installed, the electrician usually cuts the holes. When you do replace the boxes, make sure the new box has the proper wire clamps on it. 370-21 Repairing Drywall (or Plasterboard) and Plaster Usually, electricians are not responsible for cutting holes in drywall, plasterboard, or plaster. I can't think of a reason they used two boxes other than that's what they happened to have on hand at the time. I hate having to do drywall repair, so I personally would try to make a 4-gang fit as best as I could, but that's really just preference.
SINGLE GANG PLASTER RINGS CUT DRYWALL AROUND PATCH
If you want to minimize the amount of patch work you do, you can just replace the two boxes with a 4-gang, but you't going to have some repair on the edges either way. That would leave one dimmer and one regular switch and those would both fit into a single 2-gang box. Based on what I can see with the wiring, you could attach all the lights to one dimmer (check the wattage rating on the dimmer, but you're going to replace the recessed lights with LEDs anyway, right?). You have 3 dimmer switches, so if you want to keep them (or combine all the recessed lights into one) you won't want to use any combo switches. Outside of verifying the switch can handle the load, what other things do I need to consider? Would it be simpler/easier to do this rather than replacing the whole thing with a 4 gang box? I read a few other similar questions but I'm not entirely sure if I can do this. So, I'm considering combining those 3 into a single switch. Three of the switches control recessed lighting in the room and we rarely turn on one without the others.
Q2: One other idea I had was to combine some of the switches. Q1: Is it possible to replace the 2 gang boxes with a single 4 gang box? I'm hesitant to go down this path because my instincts tell me that there is a reason why someone did it like this.
Pierce the paper and about half of the gypsum core inside the drywall this is called scoring the drywall. Take a utility knife and press the edge into your drywall at the top where you need to start your cut. I tried initially to fix this by cutting a standard 2 device plate and positioning it next to a standard plate: Run a utility knife along your square to cut the paper and some of the drywall core. However, I quickly realized that the 4 device wall plate will not cover this now that they are seated properly. To get things stabilized and provide a way to attach the wall plate, I installed 2 mud rings (shown in the picture). There is a stud on the left side of box 1 and a stud on the right side of box 2. It appears that 4 light switches were installed in 2 adjacent double gang boxes. When I did this, I found that the wall plate was being held on by paint alone. Recently I took a wall plate off a 4 switch box to paint the wall.
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